Video Mounting


Video time! The vTX mounts to the top plate using the included hardware easily enough - almost like it was made for it. Go figure.

And then the Team camera mount:

That really doesn't fit quite right. The camera has a set screw poking out the side which prevents it from going all the way into the mount. If I were an engineer, I'd clarify that to say that a pan head screw which was used to serve the function of a set screw is what's poking out the side and that an actual set screw would have been flush with the camera housing because actual set screws don't have heads on them. 

Oh, that's right - I am an engineer.

Fear not. We have files and aluminum is soft.

With the camera securely in its mount, plug in the cable it came with and size up the wires which are about to be soldered. The power goes to the regulated output on the mPB while the video goes to the RE1, plus you're going to be twisting the power wires together (right??), so don't just blindly cut all of the wires to the same length. That is, unless you're ok with having 2mm of unnecessary wire length. [shudder] You can cut the video wire now if you want, but don't solder it yet.

Should be a familiar process by now: size, cut, solder. 

Size, cut, and solder the power leads for the Cricket next. Because the power for the cam is coming from the mPB instead of the Cricket, now is also a good time to remove the power lead from the Cricket's harness. The Cricket draws too much amperage to use one of the regulated outputs on the mPB. That's ok though, because the mPB has an output which provides pack voltage but through a filter. Use this output.

Admire your handiwork. Really, take a nice close look at it. Maybe zoom in on the Picoblade connector for the camera. If you're French-Canadian, open your mouth and unleash a "Tabarnak!" Sip from your beer and replace the connector you just melted. Sigh.

Solder the yellow wire from the camera into the Vin pin on the RE1 and the yellow wire from the Cricket to the Vout pin. The video ground from the Cricket goes right next to it.

This is a race-ready build, so let's put the lap timing lights onto the RE1. Trim the leads to length and then solder in place. The flat on the LED goes down.

We're getting close!

BTW, remember that snazzy RX you bought? Now is a great time to check to see if it's compatible with your TX. Oh nuts - it isn't. Since you're filled with self-loathing at this point, you may as well solder the ESC signal wires to the RE1 and then call it a night.


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